Marlon Gobel – Fall 2010 Collection – New York

story by Brandon Ruckdashel
photos by Tal Shpantzer

Entering into the presentation space, it is clear that Marlon Gobel, for his first solo collection, has designed a high concept line. Standing out from the white seamless walls is a homemade geodesic dome which serves as the centerpiece and framing device for his models. He has seamlessly integrated allusions to strands of DNA, blood vessels, and internal organs into the collection. Highlights of these expressions included the Blood Vessel Braided Tie and a Cashmere Heart and Blood Vessel Sweater. … Continue Reading

Tony Cohen – Fall 2010 Collection – New York

story by Brandon Ruckdashel
photos by Sandy Ramirez
photo editing by Katie Piper

Tony Cohen’s fall-winter 2010 collection show, featuring the style direction of the talented Kithe Brewster, had a touch of edge for everyone. From the jeweled embroidered sleeve gloves to his silk organza dress, the attention to detail was stunning. Specifically this was represented by the choice of fabric for an exquisitely saturated crimson reverse pleated silk top, and the occasional solo leather wrap cuff used to add an eye-catching touch of asymmetry. … Continue Reading

Venexiana – Fall 2010 Collection – New York

story by Rachel Francois
photos by Sandy Ramirez
photo editing by Katie Piper

The delicate sheer and jeweled details in each of Kati Stern’s Fall 2010 gowns are camera ready for the bright lights of the Golden Globe and Academy Award red carpets. Beautiful floor sweeping pieces with peeks of skin – low cut backs, exposed shoulders – added the feminine touch. It is apparent that Stern’s modus operandi is outfitting a woman’s body for elegance. … Continue Reading

They’re Making It Here, Not Just Anywhere – New York, New York

story by Charles Beckwith
photos by Bill Wang

While visiting the Garment Industry Development Corporation’s Showroom New York during New York Fashion Week, I met Bill Wang, marketing manager for Johnny Wu Designs, who invited me to a Chinese New Year celebration at their factory showroom on 38th Street. Johnny Wu, as it turned out, is a master pattern maker who helps a lot of emerging and established designers bring their rough ideas to life, and he does it right in the middle of Manhattan, as one of the many small businesses still holding on in the shadow of what was once New York’s largest industry, the garment business. … Continue Reading

Dutch Fashion (R)Evolution

story by Karine Bloem
photos by Ralph Lemarechal

In this article, guest writer Karine Bloem from TheDigitalistas.com explains the past and present of Dutch fashion, and gives insight into what is happening with Amsterdam International Fashion Week. … Continue Reading

Chaya – Fall 2010 Collection – Berlin

story by Boris Marberg with contributions by Peter Becher and Michael Fragoso
photos by Boris Marberg, Wolfgang Wöhrle, Pete Cameron Dominkovits, Peter Becher

Chaya is a new brand founded by designer Jill Asemota in 2009, supported by veteran designers Nina Maurach and Eric de Bastos, which recently had its tent debut at Mercedes-Benz Berlin Fashion Week. They presented two lines, Chaya Doll and Chaya Shirts. There were figure-hugging cuts in the dresses and skirts, all very feminine, but some of the models had problems with skirts and dresses riding up during the show. It is all supposed to tie back to a 1950s pin-up aesthetic with references to Marilyn Monroe and Bettie Page. … Continue Reading

Antonio Azzuolo – Fall 2010 Collection – New York

story by Michael Fragoso
photos and photo editing by Freda Henry

Discussing his inspiration for his fall 2010 collection, Antonio Azzuolo said, “it started when I watched Midnight Cowboy one night. I got the idea to create my own interpretation of the Wild West.” … Continue Reading

Andy & Debb – Fall 2010 Collection – New York

story by Rachel Francois
photos and photo editing by Freda Henry

Andy Kim and Debbie Yoon, husband and wife designers of Andy & Debb,  presented a mixture of textured, sequined, and metallic garments as their fall 2010 collection. … Continue Reading

Jsong – Fall 2010 Collection – New York

story by Michael Fragoso
photos by Freda Henry
photo editing by Katie Piper

Demure in a floor length black brocade gown, designer Way Zen pours Ti Kuan Yin tea for herself in preparation for her show. “I don’t care about any of the trends of today, I just worry about what I like,” she says. Way’s homeland of China is what she calls her “roots,” but her main inspiration for the line is a merging of Ancient Chinese and Old New York. “However, I prefer to use a blend of New York and Chinese heritage, since I’ve lived here for so long.” … Continue Reading

Lovely London Lovely Lovely

photos by Boris Marberg, Freda Henry, and Wolfgang Wöhrle

Here is a preview of some of the shows we are covering in London. Lovely. … Continue Reading

The Vessel by Lois – Fall 2010 Collection – New York

story by Brandon Ruckdashel
photos by Sandy Ramirez
photo editing by Katie Piper

The Vessel by Lois (pronounced Loy) went off without a hitch, but almost without an audience thanks to the blizzard that hit The Eastern Seaboard the night before the show and put New York’s streets under several inches of snow. Lois Samuels, with this second collection, has definitely progressed from her freshman effort. … Continue Reading

Kaviar Gauche “Stripped” Fall 2010 Collection – Berlin

story and photos by Boris Marberg
photo editing by Katie Piper

Running parallel to Mercedes-Benz Berlin Fashion Week was the Michalsky StyleNite, which included three of the more avant garde designers’ collections: Michalsky, Lala Berlin, and Kaviar Gauche.

The inspiration for the Kaviar Gauche collection and show was the Berlin avant garde artists of the 1920s, with nods to the uninhibited urges toward amusement expressed by period style icons like Marlene Dietrich. … Continue Reading

Hugo Boss Black, Fall 2010 Collection In Berlin

story by Charles Beckwith
photos by Boris Marberg

From earth tones to eggplant to black and cobalt blue, this elegant and varietal collection of women’s and men’s fall clothing and accessories from Hugo Boss showed quality tailoring with innovative style throughout, and will certainly please a lot of consumers. … Continue Reading

Les Hommes, Fall 2010 Collection at Milan Moda Uomo

story by Charles Beckwith
photos by Boris Marberg and Wolfgang Wöhrle

With few exceptions, what we’re seeing in Milan and Berlin so far this season looks safe, and Les Hommes designers Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch, despite being wild enough to have full gold chrome suits on the runway, seem to be playing it safe. … Continue Reading

Vivienne Westwood, Fall 2010 Collection at Milan Moda Uomo

story by Charles Beckwith
photos by Boris Marberg and Wolfgang Wöhrle

This is why we’re out here. This show is why modaCYCLE exists. Here is a storyteller showing a collision of fantasy, reality, and optimism. The wisdom and intelligence and style were all there in this show. … Continue Reading

Frankie Morello, Fall 2010 Collection at Milan Moda Uomo

story by Boris Marberg and Charles Beckwith
photos by Boris Marberg

Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti’s Frankie Morello menswear show at Via Palermo (their usual spot) was a great “spettacolo.” The theme was vampires and football (world championship soccer). … Continue Reading

Carlo Pignatelli Outside, Fall 2010 Collection at Milan Moda Uomo

story by Boris Marberg
photos by Boris Marberg and Wolfgang Wöhrle

Carlo Pignatelli Outside is the outerwear line produced by one of the world’s great designers of men’s formalwear.

This show opened Milan Moda Uomo and went right for the jugular on a classic winter image. My first impression was that this was deeply influenced by the idea of a Russian winter presented in the film Doctor Zhivago, and reflects winter in the time of the revolution against the Tsarist autocracy. In fact, the music played at the beginning of the show was the overture from that classic motion picture, an odd yet harmonious blend of subtle military themes with folk music. … Continue Reading

CoSTUME NATIONAL, Fall 2010 Collection at Milan Moda Uomo

photos by Boris Marberg
text by Charles Beckwith

Ennio Capasa sent trim and boss looks down the runway at his CoSTUME NATIONAL show this past weekend at Milan Moda Uomo, the main Italian menswear fashion week where looks for Fall 2010/Winter 2011 are presented.

Check out the brown leather shirt worn over a black turtleneck and under a dark sport coat in the last shot. Looks great, but it is wearable? … Continue Reading

Shakeup In Berlin

story by Boris Marberg and Charles Beckwith
photos by Boris Marberg and Alexander Palacios

Several decades ago, Berlin was one of the most important fashion capitals in Europe. That hasn’t been the case for a while now, but in the last few years Berlin has gotten some of its mojo back, with the fashion week events established by IMG and their naming rights sponsor Mercedes-Benz in 2008, and built onto by others since then in the form of trade shows and other kinds of complimentary events. The impact of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin has been very positive for the city and designers in the region, continuously growing with each new season. This season there will be roughly 30 collections presented in the Bebelplatz tents. Most people involved seem to agree that IMG has done a very good job. … Continue Reading

The Harlem Fashion Row – Spring 2010 Collections

story by Faith Bowman
photos by Charles Beckwith

Shortly after New York Fashion Week, Harlem’s Fashion Row geared up to present collections by emerging designers at a fine arts venue in Harlem called The Gatehouse. Operated by a collective dedicated to promoting Harlem’s enduring influence and contribution to the fashion world, Fashion Row featured four lines, including one by recent Project Runway alum Epperson. … Continue Reading