Marlon Gobel – Fall 2010 Collection – New York

story by Brandon Ruckdashel
photos by Tal Shpantzer

Entering into the presentation space, it is clear that Marlon Gobel, for his first solo collection, has designed a high concept line. Standing out from the white seamless walls is a homemade geodesic dome which serves as the centerpiece and framing device for his models. He has seamlessly integrated allusions to strands of DNA, blood vessels, and internal organs into the collection. Highlights of these expressions included the Blood Vessel Braided Tie and a Cashmere Heart and Blood Vessel Sweater. … Continue Reading

Hugo Boss Black, Fall 2010 Collection In Berlin

story by Charles Beckwith
photos by Boris Marberg

From earth tones to eggplant to black and cobalt blue, this elegant and varietal collection of women’s and men’s fall clothing and accessories from Hugo Boss showed quality tailoring with innovative style throughout, and will certainly please a lot of consumers. … Continue Reading

Les Hommes, Fall 2010 Collection at Milan Moda Uomo

story by Charles Beckwith
photos by Boris Marberg and Wolfgang Wöhrle

With few exceptions, what we’re seeing in Milan and Berlin so far this season looks safe, and Les Hommes designers Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch, despite being wild enough to have full gold chrome suits on the runway, seem to be playing it safe. … Continue Reading

Vivienne Westwood, Fall 2010 Collection at Milan Moda Uomo

story by Charles Beckwith
photos by Boris Marberg and Wolfgang Wöhrle

This is why we’re out here. This show is why modaCYCLE exists. Here is a storyteller showing a collision of fantasy, reality, and optimism. The wisdom and intelligence and style were all there in this show. … Continue Reading

C.P. Company, Fall 2010 Collection at Milan Moda Uomo

story by Charles Beckwith
photos by Boris Marberg and Wolfgang Wöhrle

Ravarino, Italy-based C.P. Company showed their line of menswear at Milan Moda Uomo. … Continue Reading

Frankie Morello, Fall 2010 Collection at Milan Moda Uomo

story by Boris Marberg and Charles Beckwith
photos by Boris Marberg

Maurizio Modica and Pierfrancesco Gigliotti’s Frankie Morello menswear show at Via Palermo (their usual spot) was a great “spettacolo.” The theme was vampires and football (world championship soccer). … Continue Reading

Carlo Pignatelli Outside, Fall 2010 Collection at Milan Moda Uomo

story by Boris Marberg
photos by Boris Marberg and Wolfgang Wöhrle

Carlo Pignatelli Outside is the outerwear line produced by one of the world’s great designers of men’s formalwear.

This show opened Milan Moda Uomo and went right for the jugular on a classic winter image. My first impression was that this was deeply influenced by the idea of a Russian winter presented in the film Doctor Zhivago, and reflects winter in the time of the revolution against the Tsarist autocracy. In fact, the music played at the beginning of the show was the overture from that classic motion picture, an odd yet harmonious blend of subtle military themes with folk music. … Continue Reading

CoSTUME NATIONAL, Fall 2010 Collection at Milan Moda Uomo

photos by Boris Marberg
text by Charles Beckwith

Ennio Capasa sent trim and boss looks down the runway at his CoSTUME NATIONAL show this past weekend at Milan Moda Uomo, the main Italian menswear fashion week where looks for Fall 2010/Winter 2011 are presented.

Check out the brown leather shirt worn over a black turtleneck and under a dark sport coat in the last shot. Looks great, but it is wearable? … Continue Reading

Bespoken Spring-Summer 2010 Collection

story by Rachel Francois
photos by Freda Henry

Mid-town Manhattan from on high was the backdrop as black and white film projections tickled the walls for the Bespoken spring-summer 2010 collection presentation. Exclusively designed and manufactured in London, the traditional English aesthetic was on display in the silhouettes and details of the collection. Originally all about the shirts, the label has now evolved into suits and especially into fitted jackets. The designers experimented with fabrics such as seersucker and wax cotton to give the traditional men’s suit a refreshing youthful edge. … Continue Reading

General Idea Spring-Summer 2010 Collection

story by Cameron Carpenter
photos by Adrianna Favero

There was a bit of a wait for the start of the General Idea show, but it was actually nice to get cooled off and have a few minutes to scan the crowd and wave hellos. There were a lot of buyers in the audience and the international press came out in force. The wait and heat were no bother once the show started and the brilliant thread of thought designer Bum Suk Choi began expressing wit the Fall 2009 show was continued for Spring 2010 in lighter fabrications. … Continue Reading

Loden Dager Spring-Summer 2010 Collection

photos by Sandy Ramirez

Here are some shots from Paul Marlow’s Loden Dager spring-summer 2010 collection runway show. … Continue Reading

Gilded Age Spring-Summer 2010

story by Rebekah Glasgow
photos by John Lamparski

Stefan Miljanic’s Gilded Age spring-summer 2010 collection was casual, wearable, and showed attention to detail. … Continue Reading

5 Minutes With Duckie Brown

interview and photos by Sandy Ramirez

Steven Cox and Daniel Silver showed their Spring-Summer 2010 Duckie Brown menswear collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York. Sandy had a few minutes with them back stage before the show. … Continue Reading

John Varvatos, Spring 2010 Collection at Milan Moda Uomo

story by Freda Henry
photos by Boris Marberg

The John Varvatos Spring-Summer 2010 Collection was a series of clean cut, soft garments, and silky looks in black, red, silver, grey-blue, and yellow. Refined fits were on display, especially in the classically-inspired coats and jackets. The addition of light scarves and shades to several looks projected a “too cool” vibe. Wearing looks from this line will surely boost the appearance of confidence for young businessmen on the move. … Continue Reading

Versace Spring-Summer 2010 Collection at Milan Moda Uomo

notes by Freda Henry
photos by Boris Marberg

Donatella Versace’s Spring-Summer 2010 mens collection show featured simple chic shirts, loose long pants, and leather bracelets and bands on the wrists which matched the belts. Lots of long-sleeve earth color shirts with open button collars. Every outfit sent down the line was made of more or less matching pieces, so it was a bit like seeing a series of young millionaires’ uniforms paraded out, but not costumes per se. Overall a rather rugged appearance for summer. … Continue Reading

Burberry Prorsum Spring-Summer 2010 collection at Milan Moda Uomo

story by Charles Beckwith
photos by Alexander Palacios

Burberry shows its colors, as hints and accents, in this diverse but uninspiring summer collection. … Continue Reading

Missoni, Spring-Summer 2010 Collection at Milan Moda Uomo

story by Boris Marberg and Charles Beckwith
photos by Boris Marberg

A blanched hardwood runway, like a long pier, is lit as if by moonlight, setting off the warm pastel accent garments in Missoni’s predominantly sky (comfort) blue Spring/Summer 2010 men’s collection. … Continue Reading

CoSTUME NATIONAL, Spring-Summer 2010 Collection at Milan Moda Uomo

story by Boris Marberg and Charles Beckwith
photos by Boris Marberg

CoSTUME NATIONAL designer Ennio Capasa has said about his new collection, “I wanted to bring a symbolic jungle into a metropolis; a jungle made of emotions that would take us back to our deeper, more authentic side; recharging us with harmony and joy.” We read the words, but we don’t see the execution, unless that organic metropolis is supposed to be represented by the junior partners at a post-apocalyptic architectural firm. … Continue Reading

Ermenegildo Zegna, Spring-Summer 2010 Collection at Milan Moda Uomo

story and photos by Boris Marberg

Ermenegildo Zegna opened Milan Moda Uomo, the Italian men’s fashion week for spring-summer 2010 collections in Milan, on a perfect warm summer day. Perfect for a fashion show and perfect for his new collection. … Continue Reading

Gianfranco Ferré, Fall 2009 Preview

photos by Boris Marberg, text by Charles Beckwith

More of the laser-cut leather we’ve been seeing lately, but this time also with highly-detailed hand-embroidery.

… Continue Reading